Where do I even begin to wrap my head around the vastness of what the Amazon is and what it even means to the common person? When I think of "the Amazon", it conjures images of tropical rainforests, winding rivers, native tribes, slithering serpents, ravenous piranhas, swinging monkeys and wildly colourful birds. Of course, this is not even the tip of the iceberg. The Amazon is a massive and lush rainforest. Covering an area of 2.6 million mi² (6.7 million km²), it is the largest tropical rainforest in the world. It spans nine countries in South America, with the majority of it located within Brazil. The Amazon Rainforest plays an incredibly important role in regulating the Earth's climate by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing oxygen.
The Amazon is home to 47 million people, 400 indigenous and ethnic groups, and contains 10% of the world's known species. Many of these species are endemic to the Amazon, and new flora and fauna are discovered every year. It has a staggering 400 billion trees that aid with the production of rainfall, releasing some 20 billion tonnes of water into the air every day.
Everything about the Amazon is on a grand scale. Consider this for a moment: it has the world's largest anteater, armadillo, snake, and toucan, to name a few, along with the heaviest rodent and the largest parrot. The Amazon is filled with the weird and wonderful – ever heard of a monkey that purrs like a cat or the pink dolphin?
This incredible ecosystem is intertwined with the magnificent Amazon River, the largest river in the world by volume of water and the second longest after the Nile River. Although in recent decades, there's been significant debate over whether the Amazon River is longer.
To begin this incredible journey, I arrived in Manaus, located in the heart of the Amazon rainforest in Brazil. Manaus is the state of Amazonas's capital, a major commercial centre known for producing electronics and chemicals, building ships, and exporting nuts, rubber, jute, and rosewood oil.
Before European settlement, Manaus was occupied by indigenous people. Then in the 16th century, Spanish and Portuguese conquistadors began to explore the Amazon region, searching for valuable resources, including gold and claiming the land for their investors. While the Spanish colonised the region north of Brazil, the Portuguese colonised Brazil. As part of colonisation, the Portuguese established a fort in the area in the late 17th century, which would later become Manaus.
The city's economic growth exploded during the rubber boom of the late 1800s when grand buildings such as the Teatro Amazonas were constructed. It was at the theatre that I started my walk, admiring its neoclassical architecture. Two curving staircases led to the entrance featuring a large portico with six columns and a large wrought-iron gate made in Scotland. Made of white and pink stones with a large central dome, the theatre is a blend of Renaissance and Baroque elements. The dome was covered in 36,000 ceramic tiles imported from France painted in Brazil's national flag colours.
The interior is even more spectacular, with a grand foyer featuring a mosaic floor made of coloured marble and decorated in intricately detailed frescoes, statues, gold leaf and nearly 200 chandeliers, with 32 of them made of Italy's luxurious Murano glass.
I wandered past Palácio Rio Negro, once the home of the governor of Amazonas, and Palacete Provincial, a former police headquarters. Grand and beautiful, the landmarks serve as museums showcasing the region's history, culture, art, numismatics and archaeology.
I continued to the Port of Manaus to board my cruise down the river, where I hope to unravel the beauty and mysteries of the Amazon, beginning with the Meeting of Waters.
km od začátku : 0018
Meeting of Waters
I walked to Porto de Manaus to board a riverboat and head down the mighty Amazon River. I bubbled with excitement and anticipation, particularly as I cruised towards the Meeting of Waters.
The port was bustling with activity just as it did two centuries ago when it was a busy hub exporting rubber from the area. Inaugurated in 1903, the construction of the port was a major feat of engineering at the time because it needed to cope with the ebb and flow of the river and its unpredictable and dangerous levels.
As a medium-sized port, it surprisingly receives various large ocean-going vessels, including cargo and container ships, oil tankers, and passenger cruise liners. Cunard's cruise liner Queen Victoria was one of the biggest ships sailing the Amazon River. It made its maiden visit to Manaus in 2017 while on a world cruise. I could imagine that would have been a spectacular sight and experience. The port is an important commercial centre and the main transport hub for the upper Amazon basin.
Once I arrived at the river cruise terminal, I couldn't wait to board and embark on my journey down the Rio Negro. As I departed from the port, I made my way to the deck, leaning against the railing, marvelling at the river's dark colour.
The Rio Negro, meaning "Black River", lives up to its name as the largest blackwater river in the world and the most extensive left tributary of the Amazon River. This type of river has a dark, tea-coloured appearance resulting from decayed vegetation caused by high rainfall and dense vegetation commonly found in rainforests.
At a leisurely pace, the boat cruised along the river for the next 10mi (16km) until it reached the Meeting of Waters, or "Encontro das Águas" in Portuguese. This fascinating natural phenomenon is where the black waters of the Rio Negro meet the lighter, muddy waters of the Solimões River to form the mighty Amazon River. The two rivers flow side by side for 3.7mi (6km) without mixing, creating a starkly visible boundary between the blackwater of Rio Negro and the whitewater of Solimões River.
This phenomenon occurs due to the contrasting temperatures, speeds, and sediments that flow beside each other. The Solimões River, which flows 2.5 to 3 times faster than the Rio Negro, is 10°F (6°C) cooler and carries light-colored water rich with sediment from the Andes Mountains. In contrast, the Rio Negro's blackwater originates from decayed leaf and plant matter in the Colombian hills and interior jungles, resulting in its distinct dark color.
Although there are other instances of the Meeting of Waters phenomenon in places like Switzerland, Germany, Serbia, and India, Brazil's Amazon region remains the most famous.
It is definitely a sight to behold and one I will enjoy for a few miles more.
km od začátku : 0097
Amazon River
Here I am in Coba, staring up at one of the tallest Maya structures on the peninsula, the temple pyramid called Ixmoja. It is 138ft (42m) tall and part of the Nohoch Mul complex of pyramids. As I contemplate
As I cruised down the river, the two waterways blended into a café-au-lait mix of whitewater. While my journey covers a distance of 1000mi (1600km), it accounts for only a quarter of the river's total length. To find where the Amazon starts, I would have to travel high into the Andes Mountains of Peru. From there, it gets a little tricky because scholars and explorers have debated the source of the Amazon for centuries. Most agree that it comes from three rivers in Peru: the Marañón, the Apurímac, and the Mantaro, instead of one source.
The Amazon stretches for about 4000mi (6400km), flowing north through Peru before turning east and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. The river is connected to a vast network of waterways that include more than 1100 tributaries, eleven of which are major rivers in their own right, each exceeding 1000mi (1600km) in length.
As a whole, the Amazon drains nearly 40% of the South American continent. Up to 20% of this freshwater is discharged into the ocean, amounting to 209,000 cubic metres per second, equivalent to 84 olympic swimming pools. In fact, the Amazon could fill 7.2 million olympic swimming pools in a single day. This huge discharge of freshwater dilutes the salinity of the Atlantic Ocean for more than 100mi (160km) offshore. This process is very important for stabilising the Earth's climate and ocean currents. Any changes in ocean currents can lead to extreme weather events, such as droughts or floods, impacting the livelihoods of communities and indigenous people that rely on a balanced ecosystem.
Interestingly, geological studies suggest that the river flowed westward, emptying into the Pacific Ocean millions of years before the Andes Mountains formed. When the South American and Nazca tectonic plates collided, it gave rise to the Andes, blocking the river's flow. Over time it changed course due east.
To Brazilians, the river section between the border of Peru and its confluence with Rio Negro in Manaus is known as the Solimões River. The name is derived from an indigenous nation called Soriman. To the rest of the world, the river's upper and lower portions are known as the Amazon.
Every year, from December to May, the Amazon River experiences a "flood pulse", where heavy rainfall and snowmelt cause the water level to rise by 30-40ft (9-12m). This flooding creates a seasonal floodplain forest inundated by whitewater rivers, called várzea in Portuguese. It's a big deal for aquatic plants, like water lilies and grasses, as the whitewater deposits nutrient-rich sediments, which help them to thrive. Várzea is also an important food source for fish, turtles, birds, and land animals. The Amazon River dolphins are in their element, swimming through the flooded trees to hunt for fish. From June to November, the water levels recede, and the river returns to its normal course.
There is much to learn about this magnificent river, but I must push on to my next destination. See you in Itacoatiara.
km od začátku : 0168
Itacoatiara
I've reached an island with Paraná da Trinidade (stream) to the north and the Amazon flowing to the south. I hopped off here, tossed my daypack on, filled it with plenty of water and snacks and walked along its shoreline for the next 6mi (10km). This is a river island, and it is one of a great number of river islands found in the Amazon. Some are nearly as large as a small country or a US state. For instance, Ilha Tupinambarana, which I will pass by later, is about the size of Connecticut.
These river islands are formed when sufficient sediment deposits known as alluvium build up. This alluvium is a mixture of clay, sand, gravel, and other organic and inorganic matter carried downstream by the river and then deposited on the riverbed. When the alluvium gathers mass, it protrudes from the water creating a small sediment island. The alluvium is rich in nutrients and minerals, making it fertile soil for agriculture and plant growth. Grasses are the initial colonisers providing stability to the island, which is then succeeded by woody vegetation that later turns into a forest.
The shape of these islands constantly changes because of the river's powerful currents and seasonal flooding. Many of them are uninhabited, left largely untouched by human activity, providing a haven for rare and endangered species. In contrast, the few inhabited islands are often used for agriculture, fishing and hunting, giving food and water to local communities.
As I reached the end, appreciating the sights and sounds along the way, I reboarded the riverboat for a short trip to Itacoatiara.
Located on the left bank of the river, Itacoatiara is one of the region's main commercial centres, with a port responsible for cargo transportation in Amazonas. It is known for its production of timber, as well as fishing and agriculture. The city was shaped by native Brazilians, early European settlers, and Africans. In modern times, immigrants from Japan, Syria, Lebanon and Morocco added to the cultural melting pot.
With a festival event that includes music, dancing and a beauty pageant, the city celebrates the local fruit, cupuaçu. It is a melon-sized, hard-shelled fruit with a creamy white pulp that tastes like a mix of chocolate and pineapple, with a hint of banana or pear. It is a sister plant of cacao and is often used in desserts, drinks and flavouring of other dishes.
I took a short stroll along the coast and came across a residence bound by a high fence painted with stunning sceneries of the Amazon River featuring giant waterlilies, a jaguar, a toucan, a macaw and a native girl.
After wandering around the city centre, I boarded the riverboat and continued my cruise.
km od začátku : 0245
Rainforest Layers
As mentioned in the previous postcard, I am currently cruising alongside the river island Tupinambarana, which spans a massive 200mi (320km) in length. As the third largest island in Brazil, it'll take me a while to get to the end of it, but that'll allow me to admire the lush rainforest and marvel at the ecological diversity of the Amazon. Many indigenous communities have called the island home for generations and continue living a traditional way of life. The island teems with creatures, from gorgeous colourful birds to cheeky monkeys and adorable but very slow-moving sloths.
As I observe the forest from the riverboat's deck, I contemplate its structure, vegetation, and wildlife. Separated into four layers, the first one is the 'forest floor', which receives very little sunlight. The forest floor is covered in a thick layer of decomposing leaves and twigs, creating the perfect environment for fungi and small plants to grow. Large animals like tapirs and anteaters, including many insects and microorganisms, inhabit this area.
The next level is the 'understory layer', where sunlight is just starting to filter through the canopy. This layer is characterised by small trees, shrubs and vines. Plants such as bromeliads, palms and ferns have adapted to thrive in these low-light conditions. Up in the branches, toucans and parrots provide bursts of colour, boa constrictors coil and jaguars lounge, keeping a watchful eye.
The 'canopy layer' is where things change. Here the branches of the tallest trees overlap to form a dense canopy absorbing most of the sunlight. Interestingly, the canopy trees may look interlocked with each other, but in reality, they don't even touch, with the trees growing a few feet apart. This is thought to be a form of protection from tree-eating caterpillars and tree diseases. Canopy dwellers like monkeys and frogs must swing, climb, leap, glide or fly to close the gaps. Most of the trees in this layer reach 130ft (40m), with trunks wrapped in liana vines and epiphytes protruding from the sides or growing on branches.
The final level is the 'emergent layer', where trees 200ft (60m) tall push through the canopy into the full glory of sunlight and the full brunt of strong winds. The foliage on the trees is quite sparse around the trunk area, but they spread wide at the top, like an umbrella. Animals at this level, which typically include butterflies, birds, gliders and bats, must be able to fly or glide to manoeuvre between the branches. The Brazil nut tree is one of the emergent species found in the Amazon. If left undisturbed, the tree can live up to 1000 years. Its fruit, nutshell and seeds can weigh up to 4.4lb (2kg). It is an important food source containing several micronutrients providing various health benefits.
While each layer is distinct, as a whole system, they are interdependent and rely on each other for survival. Where the canopy layer regulates the amount of light and moisture reaching the ground, the understory provides a habitat for animals and plants that can't survive in bright environments. The forest floor is where everything decomposes, providing essential nutrients for new growth.
It is an incredibly complex ecosystem, so when I look at the jumble of vegetation, I don't see a jungle anymore. I see a well-organised environment where each plant and animal plays a vital role in survival.
km od začátku : 0322
Flora Diversity
An astonishing 40,000 plant species and 16,000 tree species are within the rainforest's layers. This is a sampling only because the true number of species is unknown. Many locations are too remote or too high up in the trees, making it difficult to access and study. Regardless, the number is extraordinary. I want to share a small selection of beautiful and unique species beginning with the versatile Lipstick Tree.
Scientifically known as Bixa Orellana, the Lipstick Tree is recognised for its scarlet fruit and small red seeds. It also has a beautiful rose-like, pale pink, five-petalled flower with a burst of violet-coloured stamens. The red seeds have been used as a food colourant, giving items like cheese (i.e., Colby cheese), butter and baked goods a yellow or orange colour. A cooking spice is also derived from the seed, described as having a peppery and earthy flavour with a hint of nutmeg. It's often added to soups, stews, sauces and rice dishes. The cosmetic industry makes lipstick, blush and eyeshadow products from the seed. At the same time, indigenous people use it to treat ailments such as fever, wounds and respiratory issues. In ancient times the Aztecs used it to deepen the colour of chocolate drinks, while the Maya used it as an insect repellent and natural sunscreen.
Now let me regale you with the oddity of the carnivorous plant. Yes, you heard it right. It eats meat. These strange-looking plants have many species, the largest group being the sundew, which traps its prey with sticky tentacles on its leaves. Once the insect is caught, the plant wraps its tentacles around it and digests it. Another interesting one is the pitcher plant. As the name suggests, it's shaped like a pitcher, with nectar spread around the cup's rim, attracting insects. Because the edge is fringed with downward-pointing hairs and slippery from the nectar, the insect cannot escape once it has fallen in. The acidic enzymes inside then break down the insect for its nutrients.
This ability to attract insects and obtain nutrients by digesting them has enabled carnivorous plants to thrive in the Amazon's nutrient-poor soil.
Let me tell you more in the next postcard, where I will share about epiphytes.
km od začátku : 0386
Epiphytes
Another fascinating group of plants is epiphytes, often seen in tropical environments because they thrive in warm, humid climates with plenty of rainfall. Epiphytes need sufficient sunlight and air circulation and hence are typically found on the branches and trunks of tall trees, especially in the rainforest canopy. Examples of epiphytes found in the Amazon are bromeliads, orchids and ferns.
Bromeliads are beautiful plants with striking rosette-shaped leaves and colourful flowers. Not all bromeliads are epiphytic. Some grow on the ground or on rocks. But the species in the Amazon is epiphytic and often called an 'air plant' because it absorbs atmospheric nutrients and moisture. They provide a habitat and food for tree frogs, salamanders and insects.
The stunning orchid can grow on the forest floor, the canopy, or other plants as an epiphyte. There are so many varieties – at least 30,000 species worldwide – that new species are constantly being discovered. Some species can live up to 100 years, outliving most of us. Adapting to the Amazon environment, the orchids have thin, long leaves that absorb the needed moisture. Orchids are highly deceptive pollinators. They use every trick in the book to reproduce. For instance, the bee orchid has petals like a female bee, luring the male bee to mate. The male then gets covered in pollen and carries it off to the next orchid it visits.
Another example is the bucket orchid, whose bucket-shaped flower is designed to trap the bee inside, where it spends the night collecting pollen. The next day, the bee escapes and carries the pollen to another flower. Lastly, the delicate and gorgeous hummingbird has a special relationship with pollinating orchids and bromeliads. In a nutshell, the brightly coloured orchids reproduce by attracting pollinators to their nectar.
Overall, epiphytes have a unique symbiotic relationship with their host trees, using them as a physical support system and a platform to catch sunlight and moisture. It is believed that the host is not harmed by the epiphyte clinging to it but further studies are needed.
km od začátku : 0451
Victoria Amazonica
I couldn't go past without sharing about one of the largest water lilies in the world, Victoria Amazonica. This giant water lily is native to the Amazon Basin and is known for its circular leaves that span up to 10ft (3m). Its submerged stalk reaches 23-26ft (7-8m) in length. The lily pad with its upturned rim is perfectly balanced and buoyant, resulting from the ribbed understructure and venation, which allows it to support approximately 140 pounds (63kg). A small child sitting on the pad is often depicted in photographs.
Aside from the huge pad, the lily bears a stunning white flower that blooms overnight. Lasting only 48 hours, on the second day, the lily turns pink, then closes up and sinks beneath the water's surface. Scarab beetles are attracted to the blooming flower's scent and colour. As the flower closes overnight, the beetles get trapped inside, receiving nourishment from spongy, starchy tissue. On the eve of the second day, the flower begins to reopen. As the beetle reemerges, it is covered in pollen which it then carries to the next open lily.
The Victoria genus consists of three species. In 1837, it was named in honour of the newly ascended Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom. For 190 years, the Amazonica was listed as the world's largest water lily until a new species was identified in 2022. Victoria Boliviana, hiding in plain sight at Kew Gardens (UK) for 177 years, was mistaken for Amazonica. It wasn't until 2016 that a botanist at Kew Gardens noticed subtle differences between the two species.
Further studies and a visit to Bolivia, where the plant grows in the wild, confirmed the existence of a new species. In January 2023, Boliviana entered the Guinness World Records under three categories: the world's largest waterlily species, the world's largest leaf and the world's largest undivided leaf. Kew Gardens is the only place in the world where all three specimens reside side by side.
But the story doesn't end here. When the Amazonica specimen was transported to England in the 1830s, one challenge was making it flower because the environment was so much colder. In comes James Paxton, a renowned garden designer who successfully got the plant to flower in a greenhouse. Imagine the sensation it caused in England. Paxton studied the structure of the lily pad, recognising that the leaf ribs radiating from the centre connected with the cross ribs, giving the lily pad strength and the ability to carry weight. He applied his learnings to the design of greenhouses. Later, he won a competition to build the Great Exhibition Hall of 1851 in Hyde Park, named the Crystal Palace. Paxton said the design was greatly influenced by the beautiful lily pad. Sadly the building was destroyed by fire in 1936.
Returning to my Amazon journey, I look forward to stopping in Parana Espirito Santo.
km od začátku : 0515
Nhamunda River
As I journeyed toward Parintins on the riverboat, I couldn't help but feel excited. About 6mi (10km) before the town, the boat turned into a narrow channel, where I hopped off onto a two-person canoe, ready for my next adventure. A short paddle later, I entered a floodplain stretching before me, the water reflecting the vast blue sky above.
You may recall from my earlier postcard that a floodplain is formed when the river swells during the wet season, flooding the surrounding forests and creating a network of lakes and channels. One of the largest lakes I came across was the Lago da Madabá Grande, surrounded by several smaller lakes.
But what made this experience truly special was the slow, tranquil movement of the water. As I paddled gently, my senses were in tune with the sounds around me, the calls and songs of birds, creating a symphony in the background.
Venturing closer to the forest's edge, I couldn't help but admire the thick palm trees and dense underbrush. My eyes were drawn upwards when I spotted squirrel monkeys darting from branch to branch in large groups. These small monkeys, barely weighing 3lbs (1.4kg), rustled through the canopy, their noise echoing throughout the forest.
After some time, I found myself paddling in a narrow channel, branches looming over the stream, appearing as though they were suspended above the water. Other parts of the riverbanks were dry and sparsely vegetated, creating a fascinating contrast in scenery. Eventually, my journey led me to the Nhamundá River, one of the northern tributaries of the Amazon. This 187mi (300km) river acts as the north boundary between the states of Amazonas and Pará, which I am about to cross into.
For now, I will relish floating on the river for a few more miles until I reboard the riverboat and reunite with the Amazon River.
km od začátku : 0628
Wildlife Diversity
I pulled into Óbidos, a river port town in Pará, to check out the small Fort Pauxis. A few colonial-style buildings and colourful houses line the city centre. Óbidos was founded in 1697 on the narrowest (1.25mi/2km) part of the Amazon at the confluence of the Trombetas River. Boats and hydroplanes use the port facilities, transporting goods such as coffee, sugar and lumber up and down the river.
North of the town is the Grão-Pará Ecological Station, a highly protected area containing 4.2 million hectares that aim to preserve nature and support scientific research. It allows only limited use of its natural resources, and public visits are prohibited except for educational purposes. The station is part of a network of protected areas and indigenous lands connecting the Central Amazon Ecological Corridor to the west and the Amapá Corridor to the east.
Contemplating the vastness of this station, I pondered about the wildlife that must call this unique biome home, as well as the incredible variety found throughout the Amazon Basin. Thousands of species live within this ecosystem, many endemic to the region. The most renowned species are the jaguar, river dolphin, a variety of monkeys, sloths, toucans, and macaws. To give you an idea, here are a few high-level statistics: 400 species of mammals, 1300 species of birds, 700 species of reptiles and amphibians, and 3000 species of fish, and you may want to carry a repellent for the humongous 2.5 million species of insects. Unfortunately, habitat loss, pet trade, hunting and other factors have more than 400 species listed as endangered or critically endangered, including the harpy eagle, giant otter, and white-bellied spider monkey.
Diversity in wildlife is very important to the ecosystem as it helps maintain its function and health. Each species has a specific role in the system, like pollinating plants, controlling pest populations, and recycling nutrients. Losing even a single species can have a flow-on effect on the entire ecosystem. They are also culturally important to indigenous communities, where they play a role in traditional practices and beliefs.
Keep travelling with me, and I will tell you about the jaguar next.
km od začátku : 0676
Jaguar
Let me share about the jaguar, the third biggest feline in the Panthera genus and the only Panthera species native to the Americas, as well as the largest cat in the Western Hemisphere. This beautiful feline with rosette patterns on its tawny yellow fur is a powerful and skilled apex predator. It has a strong jaw and sharp teeth to hunt down its prey. It has been known to tackle large predators like caiman.
Jaguars are solitary animals, except during mating season when males and females come together briefly before going on their separate ways. They are excellent swimmers and prefer to live near water in rainforests, grasslands and swamps. Although they can climb trees, they are not as adept as leopards and tend to stay close to the ground. Known for their stealthy techniques, as they lack the speed of a cheetah or the strength of a lion, jaguars use their powerful jaws and sharp teeth to take down their prey. Unlike other big cats, jaguars do not avoid the water. They can paddle long distances, dive for extended periods, and even eat underwater.
According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the species is classified as Near Threatened. In some parts, jaguar populations are declining due to deforestation, habitat fragmentation, hunting, and poaching. The numbers are more stable in other regions as efforts are made to create protected areas specifically for jaguars.
Next, I will share about the monkeys found in the Amazon.
km od začátku : 0724
Monkeys
If I listen intently, I can hear all sorts of crazy sounds coming from monkeys. There's hooting and barking, whistling and chirping, and even loud screaming. These sounds are how monkeys talk to each other and have different meanings. Some calls warn about danger, while others are to keep in touch with the group. The howler monkeys are especially loud and use their calls to mark their territory or attract a mate.
There are more than 150 species of monkeys in the Amazon, and they play an important role in its ecology. Since they feed on fruit and other plant material, they help to disperse seeds throughout the forest. Marmosets and tamarin consume nectar and pollen, so they help pollinate flowers and other species. They also occupy various levels of the food chain, both as predators of smaller animals and as potential prey for larger ones. Also, their droppings are important nutrients for the forest floor, helping to maintain soil fertility and promote the growth of plant species.
A handful of species are commonly seen in the Amazon, with the Howler Monkey as one of the largest primates. These fellas are very noisy and likely to be heard well before being seen. The Maya worshipped them for their beauty and depicted them as gods. Juveniles usually leave the group they were born in and spend the rest of their lives in a group they are not related to. An excellent sense of smell allows them to smell food from over a mile away, even if their diet consists mostly of leaves. They would eat fruit but are typically outpaced by the much faster spider monkeys and end up missing out on it.
Spider monkeys are quite nimble, using their extremely long limbs and prehensile tail to move quickly through the upper layers of the rainforest. Because of their limbs, they can leap up to 35ft (11m) from tree to tree. They also have great spatial memory, remembering the location of fruit trees and water sources. These highly social and playful creatures are important seed carriers of a particular type of palm, spreading them for long distances in the forest. Unfortunately, they are listed as endangered on the IUCN List.
A fascinating-looking monkey is the Emperor Tamarin, thought to be named after German emperor Wilhelm II due to the long moustache-like facial hairs. It's one of the smallest monkeys, pretty much squirrel-sized, that can weigh as little as 4oz (113g). They are often born as twins. Their long fingers allow them to extract insects from tree bark, and their specialised teeth enable them to open tough shells of fruits and nuts.
These mischievous creatures are a lot of fun to watch in their natural habitat, observing their interactions and playfulness while listening to their noisy chatter.
km od začátku : 0756
Santarém
I arrived in Santarém, the third largest city on my journey. As I approached the Port, I was again struck by the meeting of waters, where the brown Amazon River merged with the stunning deep blue tributary, the Tapajós River. Seeing this natural wonder was truly magical.
Originally, Santarém was home to indigenous tribes until Portuguese explorer Pedro Teixeira and accompanying missionaries stumbled upon the area in 1621. Pedro continued his exploration while the missionaries founded a village on the site called Tapajós, which was later renamed Santarém.
Once I disembarked the boat, I headed straight to the waterfront to witness the meeting of waters from a different perspective. The Tapajós River is famous for its crystal-clear water and white sand, boasting over 60mi (100km) of natural beaches, ideal for swimming.
Much as I wanted to take a dip, I was more interested in visiting the Tapajós National Forest, a protected area of the Amazon rainforest. It is part of an international program called REDD+ (Reducing Emission from Deforestation and Forest Degradation), which focuses on reducing greenhouse gas emissions. As a REDD+ site, the forest is managed by the local communities, who receive incentives for implementing sustainable practices that reduce emissions.
One way they achieve this is via agroforestry, where various crops are planted alongside trees. The benefit of this approach is that trees provide the crops with shade and help improve soil and reduce erosion.
Another method is to clear small patches of forest and plant crops, a practice known as slash-and-burn agriculture. After a few years of cultivation, the land is left fallow, allowing the forest to regenerate. But this practice has been criticised for contributing to deforestation. However, it is believed that growing crops on previously forested land would likely reduce the need to resort to farming methods that require large amounts of chemical fertilisers and pesticides.
Returning to town, I strolled around the city centre, searching for a place serving Feijoada, the Brazilian version and not to be confused with the Portuguese version. Feijoada is Brazil's national dish, a hearty stew featuring pork and black beans. It is served with sauteed greens, cheese rolls, rice and freshly sliced oranges. The black beans are flavoured with onions, tomatoes, coriander and garlic, while the pork may include dried beef. After all this travelling, I am in dire need of a hearty meal.
I am also excited about my upcoming hike, hoping to catch sight of Amazon's unique and colourful birds.
km od začátku : 0821
Amazon Birds
I am bubbling with excitement. It was so good to get off the boat and stretch my legs with a nice long hike from Santarém to Curuá. The prospect of trekking through the Amazon to catch a glimpse of a handful of the 1500 known species known in the region had me bursting with anticipation.
Keeping my eyes and ears peeled for any signs of activity, I set out on my hike with a bird guide in my pocket and binoculars in my hand. I hoped to encounter the wonderfully colourful macaws, the toucans and their fascinatingly large beaks, the unique-looking Hoatzin, and, if lucky, the formidable harpy eagle.
Like the monkeys, birds are important to the ecosystem as they help spread seeds through the forest. They also help to control insect populations, and many species are important pollinators.
The Hoatzin is a fascinating bird the size of a pheasant. It has quite a prehistoric appearance, with physical features that are primitive. Its face is blue and unfeathered with maroon eyes and a prominent reddish-brown crest, while its body is covered in tawny to dark brown feathers. A newly hatched bird has claws on each wing, similar to the prehistoric Archaeopteryx. It also has a strange digestive system that allows them to ferment food in the front part of their gut. Because of this fermentation, the birds emit an unpleasant odour, and local people call it the 'stinkbird'.
They are typically found in swampy areas and the mangroves of the Amazon and Orinoco basins. They are noisy birds, often sounding hoarse, but they can also groan, hiss and grunt. The IUCN classifies them as of least concern.
Somewhere up in the sky, looking for prey, is the harpy eagle, one of the world's largest and most powerful eagles. With a wingspan of up to 7ft (2m), the eagle can weigh up to 20lbs (9kg). It is named after the Greek mythological creature Harpy, a female monster with the face of a woman and the wings, body and talons of a raptor.
The eagle has powerful talons and a sharp beak allowing it to hunt quickly and efficiently. It hunts in the canopy and tends to perch on emergent trees. I'd say it would have an excellent viewpoint. Prey may include small animals, birds, reptiles and sometimes other birds of prey. Given its large size and predatory nature, the harpy eagle has few predators in the wild.
They can live up to 30 years in the wild, but with the loss of habitat and fragmentation of forested areas, they are dwindling in numbers. It is also being hunted as they are seen as a threat to livestock and for the illegal pet trade. As such, the IUCN classified the harpy eagle as near-threatened. Several initiatives are undertaken by different countries to restore the species. Some of those efforts are captive breeding and release projects, monitoring, and satellite telemetry, where eagles are fitted with tracking devices.
I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for the vibrant macaws. They shouldn't be too hard to miss up in the trees.
km od začátku : 0893
Macaws
Oh, such excitement to finally see my absolute favourite Amazon bird species, the macaw. Part of the parrot order, they are known for their vibrant plumage and incredible intelligence. There are 17 species, all in dazzling colours, from vivid yellow and emerald green to ruby red and hyacinth blue. The largest is the Hyacinth Macaw reaching a length of 40in (100cm) from head to tail, with a wingspan of up to 4ft (122cm).
Macaws have these incredibly powerful beaks they use to crack the hard shells of seeds and nuts and, with their muscular tongues, dislodge the nutmeat from inside. Their tongue has quite a unique structure allowing them to drink water while still breathing through their nostrils. They also have 10 neck vertebrae compared to 7 in humans, giving them the flexibility to turn their heads almost 180 degrees. This helps them keep an eye out for predators while perched in trees.
Remarkably intelligent, the macaws are known for mimicking human speech, solving puzzles and using tools in captivity. In the wild, they live in pairs or family groups. They may join a large flock, usually 10-30 birds. They are monogamous and will mate for life, engaging in elaborate courtships to attract a partner.
With different pitches and tones, each species has its own communication calls. Some may be high-pitched and piercing, while others are lower and more melodic. They are fairly noisy and can be heard as far as 5mi (8km) away.
Kept as pets for centuries, the macaws are decreasing in numbers. Some species are endangered due to habitat destruction and the illegal pet trade. By setting up protected areas and promoting ecotourism, conservationists hope to help turn the downward trend. I hope so too.
I have finished my hike and am continuing my journey on the river, where I am eager to glimpse some aquatic wildlife.
km od začátku : 0974
Aquatic Wildlife
Back on the boat, the next point of focus in the animal realm was the aquatic species. Marine wildlife is abundant in the many rivers and tributaries of the Amazon. There are more than 3,000 species, from turtles, dolphins, caimans, and giant otters to the weird and fascinating electric eel and Arapaima.
But I wondered what it is about the Amazon environment that breeds and produces such large quantities of species. It seems to be a variety of reasons. As mentioned at the beginning, the river is the largest in the world by volume. It carries more water than the next seven largest rivers combined. As such, the river system creates a huge network of interconnected habitats, providing different spots for aquatic species to inhabit and thrive. It is also nutrient-rich due to the sediment and organic matter flowing through the river.
The rainforest canopy helps regulate the water temperature providing shade, shelter and protection from predators. Then there are the floodplains. The seasonal flood cycle inundates massive forest areas, creating temporary pools and ponds rich in nutrients that support many species.
Let me tell you about some iconic species starting with the Arapaima. Native to the Amazon, the Arapaima has been around for over 20 million years and is often called a "living fossil". Growing up to 9ft (2.7m) in length and weighing up to 220lb (100kg), it is one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. With the ability to breathe air, it tends to be found in slow-moving, oxygen-deficient rivers and can survive outside of water for nearly 24 hours. Arapaima is a mouthbrooder, meaning the male scoops up the eggs, carries them until they hatch, and then holds the fry in its mouth for several weeks, protecting them from predators. The arapaima is an important food source for the indigenous communities. It is also prized in the fish trade, making them vulnerable to overfishing.
Another fascinating creature is the piranha. Often depicted in Hollywood movies as devouring people, these aggressive sharp-toothed fish do not threaten humans and tend to avoid areas where they are present. Actually, piranhas are more interested in nipping at the tail of larger fish, which makes up a good portion of their diet. While they are primarily carnivorous, they are also known to eat plants and fruit that fall into the water, making them omnivorous. Despite their small size, piranhas have a powerful bite that can crush and shred their prey. They are also fiercely territorial and use a variety of vocalizations, such as clicking noises, and displays, such as fin flaring, to communicate with each other and establish dominance.
I'll tell you about the Amazon River dolphin in my next letter.
km od začátku : 1046
Amazon River Dolphin
The Amazon River dolphin (aka pink river dolphin) is a freshwater dolphin endemic to the Amazon and Orinoco River basins. Their most distinctive features are their pink skin and long, thin beaks. There are different theories about why the colour is pink, especially since they are born grey and turn pink as they age. One view is that male dolphins, usually pinker, fight a lot, and the colour results from abrasion on the skin's surface. Another theory is that since the forest often inundates, the muddy bottom turns a reddish hue, and the dolphins evolved to blend in with the surroundings. But one thing is certain, when they get excited, they blush like humans, and the pink colour turns more prominent.
The Amazon River dolphin is unique among dolphin species because of its flexible neck that can turn up to 90 degrees in either direction. This helps them navigate the river's murky water, especially when looking for food. It can also paddle forward with one flipper while paddling backwards with the other, allowing it to manoeuvre around obstacles like trees during floods.
It is not unusual to see them swim upside down, which is uncommon for other dolphin species. Scientists don't know exactly why they do that. It may relate to their feeding habits, allowing them to catch prey hiding or swimming close to the riverbed.
Like all dolphin species, the Amazon River dolphins are very social, often seen playing with kids. They are also quite intelligent. When interacting with humans, they seem to learn quickly and follow complex instructions. In the wild, they use various vocalisations to communicate, like whistles, clicks and buzzes and echolocation instead of vision to move through the murky waters.
As the apex predators in the Amazon River, the pink dolphins are essential in the ecosystem as they help maintain the balance in the food chain by controlling the population of fish species. Their presence is an indicator of the health of the river. If their population thrives, then the overall state of the freshwater system is also flourishing. They are also seed dispersers, just like monkeys and birds.
Over the last 75 years, the population of these beautiful pink dolphins has decreased by more than 50%, and IUCN lists them as endangered. Habitat loss due to dam construction, environmental pollution, bycatch and hunting are some of the reasons for their falling numbers. Significant conservation efforts are underway to reduce the threats and aim to restore their numbers and preserve their existence. Here's hoping.
km od začátku : 1127
Amazon Conservation
The Amazon rainforest is often referred to as the "lungs" of the planet, providing us with clean air, fresh water and a home to indigenous communities and countless species of plants and animals. As mentioned in earlier postcards, it also helps regulate the Earth's climate. However, despite its importance, it's difficult to ignore the threats that loom over this magnificent wilderness.
Deforestation is one of the biggest concerns. Over 20% of the rainforest has been cleared for activities such as agriculture, mining and ranching. Such actions reduce the forest's ability to store carbon, releasing it into the atmosphere and contributing to climate change. It also leads to habitat loss, as seen with the jaguar population. Deforestation is fragmenting their habitat, disrupting their movement patterns and ability to find prey. Human activities also infringe on their home, leading to conflict between people and jaguars. Ultimately these actions are leading to a decline in their numbers.
Climate change is the next biggest concern. Rising temperatures and changing rainfall patterns have caused extreme droughts in the last twenty years. Wildfires have also increased, releasing large quantities of carbon into the atmosphere. These changes place a lot of stress on trees and plants that need more water to survive. It disrupts breeding patterns, migration, and food and water availability for animals. For example, when the river level drops due to droughts, the Amazon River dolphin may get stranded in shallow waters. Unable to access food can lead to malnutrition, disease and becoming prey to caimans. Climate change can also spread invasive species that may be more resilient to the changing conditions. This would allow them to thrive and outcompete native species.
Other major problems are illegal logging contributing to deforestation, mining activities that may release toxic chemicals into the environment, and infrastructure projects such as roads and dams that displace communities, fragment habitats, and disrupt migration patterns.
Fortunately, there are a number of organisations working towards managing the damage. The Amazon Region Protected Areas Program (ARPA) is a joint effort between the Brazilian government and non-government organisations (NGOs) to create protected areas and prevent deforestation. Established in 1998, it has protected over 128 million acres, and deforestation has decreased by 75% in the last ten years.
Other NGOs are also working on various initiatives, including supporting indigenous rights and helping them protect their lands from deforestation. Some NGOs work with local communities to restore forests, while others promote sustainable agriculture by educating farmers on environmentally friendly crop production techniques. Additionally, some NGOs monitor the implications of infrastructure projects through research and use various tools to track their impact.
Many challenges are faced by the Amazon region, and although I am aware that more needs to be done, there's a sense of relief knowing that organisations are actively working on protecting it. I am also helping with conservation by contributing to organisations focused on planting trees, some of which may be in Brazil, and protecting forests.
km od začátku : 1207
Gurupá
I have arrived in the small municipality of Gurupá, where I ended my recent cruise. From here, I will head overland to connect to the southern outlet of the Amazon River. To give context, the Amazon River has three outlets to the Atlantic River, two on the north side of Marajó Island, which lies on the estuary where the Amazon empties, and one on the south side.
Before I start my hike, I plan to explore Gurupá. This remote village was founded in 1609 as a Dutch trading post called Mariocai, named after the region's indigenous people. The Dutch traded for dye, timber, and mother-of-pearl. However, the Portuguese conquered and occupied the trading post in 1623, building the Fort of Santo Antônio do Gurupá. The fort remained occupied by the Brazilian military until the mid-20th century.
One of the main industries in Gurupá is the extraction of palm hearts, a vegetable harvested from the inner core of certain palm trees. Palm hearts are known for their delicate flavour and crunchy texture and are used as a salad ingredient or as a firm vegetable in soups or stews. They are considered a rich source of protein, containing numerous amino acids that help the body function efficiently.
The peach palm (Bactris gasipaes) is one of the palm species used for extracting hearts and is also cultivated for its edible fruit. The extraction process involves cutting down a mature tree, removing the outer layers of the trunk, and then harvesting and cutting the core into small pieces. They are often preserved in brine and canned for commercial and export purposes.
The fruit of the peach palm is oval-shaped, about the size of a small apple. It has a tough outer skin that needs to be removed before eating. The inner flesh has a starchy texture and slightly sweet flavour that can be eaten raw or cooked. The fruit is often turned into jams or jellies but is also known to accompany meats or vegetables or as an ingredient in savoury dishes. It is a unique fruit that is extremely versatile and widely cultivated.
Gurupá may be small, but it has a vibrant marketplace where fresh and exotic fruits, vegetables and seafood are sold, as well as handcrafted items made by local artisans. Checking out the various stalls, I was tempted to try and taste everything. I was intrigued by medicinal herbs like 'canela de velho', used for their anti-inflammatory properties or the 'camu camu', a fruit known for its high vitamin C levels and antioxidant properties. Well, I'll wander a little more and see what else I can find before I continue with my trek.
km od začátku : 1250
Caxiuana National Forest
As I trekked towards the Caxiuanã Bay from Gurupá, I passed through Brazil's second oldest national forest, the Caxiuanã National Forest. Established in 1961 as a protected area, it is monitored by an onsite research station. Archaeological evidence suggests that the forest was once home to the Guaycuru people, but nowadays, it is sparsely populated, with only around 200 people residing in three small villages. These communities rely on traditional farming, fishing, and hunting to make a living.
Caxiuanã's plant species are incredibly diverse, ranging from towering trees to creeping vines and flowering plants. Alongside familiar species like the Brazil nut, there is the jatoba tree, a hardwood used in furniture and flooring, and the andiroba, often used as an alternative to mahogany. The name "andiroba" comes from the Nheengatu language, a branch of the Tupi language spoken in the Amazon and means "bitter oil." This is because the oil extracted from its seeds has been used in traditional medicine to treat fever and rheumatism and as an insect repellent, to name just a few of its uses.
Another intriguing tree is the copaiba, which takes its name from the Tupi language, meaning "deposit tree". This refers to the oleoresin (a natural mix of oil and resin) found inside the tree. Local natives have long known of its medicinal benefits for healing wounds and bruises, which they discovered when observing injured animals rubbing themselves against the tree trunk in an attempt to access the balsam. Today, the extracted oil is turned into essential oils and used topically for inflammation, pain, and wound healing, as well as in skincare and haircare products.
A common feature of rainforests, including Caxiuanã, is the liana vine. These long-stemmed, woody vines use various fascinating methods to climb toward the canopy. Depending on the species, it may twine around the host plant or cling to its surface using aerial roots or adhesive pads. Another method is to scramble along the forest floor or use tendrils (modified leaves or stem segments) to wrap around its host. Lianas can provide stability, shelter, and a source of food for the ecosystem. They can also become problematic if they grow too densely because they compete with other trees for nutrients and sunlight, potentially disrupting the fine balance of the forest's ecology.
Having reached the end of my hike, I boarded another riverboat and cruised toward Belém along the south side of Marajó Island.
km od začátku : 1352
Indigenous Communities
The Amazon rainforest is home to 400 indigenous communities that have lived in the region for thousands of years. Experts believe that the first Amazon settlers arrived about 10,000 years ago, but it's hard to know for sure because there are no written records or durable materials like stone to analyze. Unlike the pyramids of Chichen Itza or the Incan citadel Machu Pichu, which are made of stone and more easily studied, the Amazon rainforest is full of organic materials that decompose over time, leaving no evidence behind.
When Francisco Orellana, a Spanish conquistador, arrived in the Amazon region in 1541, there were an estimated 8-10 million inhabitants. Orellana became the first European to navigate the length of the Amazon River, encountering many indigenous tribes during his exploration. Unfortunately, his expedition also caused the demise of many tribes because of conflict and the spread of diseases. Today, only about one million indigenous people remain.
Among the communities, at least 300 languages are spoken. All these languages evolved because of the isolation of the communities, who often live in remote and inaccessible areas. Over time, the tribes developed their own unique dialects and grammar. Sadly, many languages are becoming extinct because the younger generations prefer to adopt the country's national language, Portuguese in Brazil or Spanish in the bordering countries.
The communities are deeply connected to the forest and its resources, relying on traditional activities such as hunting, fishing, and sustainable farming. While the men hunt using traps, nets or spears, the women and children usually gather fruit, nuts and other plant-based food. Tribes practice slash-and-burn agriculture, where small patches of forest are cleared and burned to create fields for crops such as cassava (a root vegetable), maize (corn), and plantains (a type of banana). When the soil is depleted of nutrients, the tribe moves to another patch allowing the forest to regenerate.
One of the most important roles in a tribe is the shaman. This spiritual leader is the keeper of plant knowledge and communicates with the spirits. They maintain the tribe's traditions and beliefs, perform ceremonies and conduct healing rituals. As the wise ones, they are usually sought out for guidance and counsel.
Shamans are highly respected and well-versed in medicinal plants they use to treat various illnesses. Plants such as the root of the Wasai (açaí) tree are used for kidney health, while Suma (Brazilian ginseng) is used as a healing tonic, energiser and immune enhancer. There are more than 30,000 medicinal plants in the Amazon. The shaman passes their knowledge and experience to apprentices for future generations.
As mining, agribusiness, and deforestation expand within the Amazon, indigenous communities face significant challenges, such as losing their ancestral lands and their traditional way of life. Various efforts are made to address these issues, including establishing protected areas and promoting the rights of indigenous communities.
km od začátku : 1448
Amazon Cuisine
One of the most wonderful experiences when travelling is sampling and learning about local cuisine. The Amazon is a rich environment providing native fruits, nuts, vegetables and fish. Traditional cooking methods such as grilling, roasting and smoking are employed, using implements such as clay pots or wrapping food in leaves before cooking over an open fire. Almost no seasoning is used, allowing the natural flavours to stand out. The cuisine is a fusion of indigenous, African and European influences.
The main protein in Amazonian cuisine is fish, with several large species such as tambaqui, arapaima, and peixe nobre being popular choices due to their nearly boneless meat and delicious flavour. One traditional dish is the Moqueca, a fish stew flavoured with coconut milk, chilli peppers, and local herbs.
A key cooking ingredient is cassava, a starchy root vegetable that is a staple food in the region. Tucupi is a sauce made from fermented cassava juice and then used to flavour fish or meat dishes. Cassava is also turned into flour used for baking bread and cakes.
Another important ingredient native to the Amazon is the açai berry. After harvesting the berries, the tribal communities eat them fresh or mashed, mixing them with water as a nutritious juice. The berries are rich in antioxidants and are used to make açai bowls, smoothies, and ice cream.
Brazil nuts are also native to the Amazon rainforest and are an important food source for communities and wildlife. They are incredibly versatile. When blended with water, it makes a creamy and nutritious nut milk used in cooking or as a dairy substitute. Sometimes they are ground and mixed with other ingredients to make a flavourful stuffing for tambaqui. They can be crushed and added to desserts like Brigadeiro, a Brazilian chocolate truffle. Brigadeiro is made with condensed milk, cocoa powder and butter. The nuts are added for their unique flavour and texture to the dessert.
Farmed in a few places in the Amazon basin is the cupuaçu. This melon-sized fruit with a shell similar to a coconut husk is a sister plant to cacao. Its flavour has been compared to chocolate with a hint of pineapple. The hot drink called cupulate, similar to hot chocolate, is made by processing the seeds of the fruit. Several sweets and desserts are made from the fruit's sweetened pulp and sold as a health supplement. Locals use it to improve their digestive system and pain relief.
Lastly, meat dishes in the Amazon may include peccary (a type of pig), capybara (a large rodent), deer, beef, or chicken. Sometimes the dishes are seasoned with jambu leaf, an aromatic plant found in northern Brazil that leaves a tingling sensation on the tongue. It's often called the 'toothache plant' because of its anaesthetic properties.
Amazon cuisine has gained international recognition, with many restaurants including it on their menus. Filled with beautiful flavours and exotic-sounding dishes like Tacacho, Patarashca, Farofa and Sarapatel, I'm now off to find something delightfully yummy and finger-licking good.
km od začátku : 1529
Traditional Arts
As I'm nearing the end of my journey, cruising along the south side of Marajó Island, I think about the Marajoara. This ancient 15th-century civilisation lived on the island and was known for making beautiful pottery. The vessels were made of clay and contained intricate geometric designs and images of wild animals living on the island. The Marajo people eventually abandoned the island. To keep the Marajo art alive, modern artisans use ancient designs for inspiration and reproduce well-known pieces stored in museums.
Traditional arts and crafts serve many purposes and are very important to Amazon communities. They are a means of preserving cultural heritage while passing it on to future generations. Handmade items that are sold provide an income to support themselves and their families.
A common craft in the Amazon is basketry, making hats, bags and mats. They are woven from natural fibres such as palm leaves or vines and decorated in colourful and elaborate patterns. Weaving is another craft that involves creating textiles like hammocks, blankets, and clothing. They are usually made from natural fibres like cotton or wool and dyed with traditional methods and natural dyes. Lastly, carvings are made from locally sourced wood or stone to create items like masks, sculptures, and utensils. The carvings typically have intricate designs or symbolic motifs.
The difficulty level in making traditional crafts depends on the design's complexity and the artisan's expertise. Knowledge can be passed down through generations, but expertise is mastered over many years of practice and patience. Each community will have its unique way of creating certain crafts, which may also depend on available materials. Other crafts like basketry are common across the tribes but will employ different weaving techniques and decorative styles.
Traditional crafts in the Amazon are at risk of disappearing due to many factors, including a lack of interest from younger generations. Various programs have been launched to help support artisans and to preserve these crafts and their cultural heritage.
Another important art form is music and dancing. Passed down through the generations of indigenous communities, they often tell stories and celebrate important events. Musical instruments are made from natural materials like drums, rattles and flutes. The music in each tribe has its own unique rhythms, melodies and lyrics and often carries a cosmic-spiritual essence.
Like music, dancing also tells stories and reflects the indigenous people and the influences from their environment. The dances have many beliefs and reasons, such as celebrating marriage, adolescence, lunar cycles, and calling upon the spirits of the ancestors. Unlike Western culture, indigenous dances are part of rituals, instead of just for pleasure, in which everyone participates. Some dance examples are Buri Buriti, which reminds participants of their roots and customs; Ayahuasca, which shows how the shaman works to alleviate illnesses; and Kuarup, a sacred dance ritual honouring the passing of a chief or a warrior.
The dancers' costumes often feature skirts and headbands in bright colours and detailed patterns. The skirts may be made from woven grasses or bark cloth, a fabric made from the inner bark of trees. Body paint made from clay, charcoal and plant dyes is used to decorate the skin, and beaded jewellery from seeds or shells is commonly worn as an accessory. The headdress is possibly the most elaborate item worn, made from the feathers of macaws or other brightly coloured birds.
While traditional dances and music face challenges due to globalization and cultural assimilation, efforts are being made to preserve their cultural identity and pass it down to future generations.
km od začátku : 1608
Belém
I have finally arrived in Belém, the bustling capital and largest city of the Brazilian state of Pará, located on the banks of the Pará River. Founded by the Portuguese in the 17th century, it was the first European colony on the Amazon. During the rubber boom in the 19th century, the city grew rapidly, bringing wealth and prosperity to some in the region.
The Port of Belém is one of the busiest in Brazil, serving as a gateway to the Amazon region and playing a crucial role in transporting goods, such as grains, minerals and forest products. It is also a significant hub for cruise ships that include Belém in their itinerary.
After disembarking from the riverboat, I headed to Estação das Docas, a beautifully restored warehouse complex housing eateries, shops, and cultural spaces. The area is split into three large iron sheds, with the Fort of São Pedro Nolasco transformed into a museum at one end and the Maria Sylvia Nunes Theatre at the other. As I walked along the waterfront beneath towering cranes that used to load and unload cargo a century ago and the 19th-century steam engine that provided energy to the port's equipment, I felt a sense of history, of days gone by.
Belém's food culture is a fascinating blend of indigenous, African, and European influences, evident in the city's thriving street food scene. Wandering through the vibrant streets, I could smell the aroma of grilled meat skewers and sweet, fresh juices wafting from the many vendors. Traditional dishes like 'pato no tucupi' caught my eye. Its succulent duck was cooked in a yellow sauce made from fermented cassava roots. But I was also drawn to the fusion dishes, like 'caruru de camarão', a stew combining West African and Brazilian influences, made with tender shrimp, okra, onions, and aromatic spices. With so many mouth-watering flavours to choose from, I found myself torn between the many options.
Before settling on something, I walked through the Ver-o-peso Market, one of the oldest public markets in the country, supplying the city with various goods, medicinal herbs, fresh veggies, fish and meat. The market is famous for its fried fish and açai, a simple yet interesting combination that strikes me as a cross between sweet and savoury. I decided to try this dish, given its supposed fame.
With my takeout in hand, I found a seat overlooking Guajará Bay, and as the sun set over the horizon, I reflected on my journey. The Amazon is a splendid ecosystem of magnificent flora and fauna with a mind-boggling river system. Every inch of the forest pulsates with life, from the towering trees to the tiniest insects. And the colours, so many among all the green, from the bright beaks of the toucans and brilliant plumage of the macaws to the delicate purple and white petals of the Passiflora and bold, bright shades of heliconias.
I found it humbling to learn about the indigenous communities and how they adapt to the ever-changing environment while steadfastly holding onto their way of life and traditions. As a final thought, I felt inspired by the conservation and sustainability initiatives taken by many NGOs. These efforts give me hope that we can still protect the Amazon Rainforest and help it flourish and thrive.
