When I think of Rovaniemi, Santa Claus's hometown naturally comes to mind. However, there's much more to this small city. As the capital of Finnish Lapland, Rovaniemi serves as a gateway to the Arctic's expansive wilderness, where endless forests, lakes, and snow-covered fells are perfect for rugged exploration under the midnight sun.
Before World War II, Rovaniemi was a remote market town and trading hub. It had a small population and was surrounded by vast boreal forests, also known as taiga. These forests, typical of the Arctic region, are made up of conifers and patches of birch and aspen in areas with more sunlight, where wildlife like reindeer, moose, wolves, and brown bears make their home. During this time, the settlement relied on fur trading, fishing, and timber floating. While isolated, Rovaniemi was at the confluence of the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki rivers, making it an important stop for those traveling into northern Finland.
As World War II neared its end, Rovaniemi was razed. With the vision of Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, the city was rebuilt with an interesting town plan. Understanding the reindeer's importance to Lapland's culture and livelihood, he designed the city in the shape of a reindeer's head and the main roads resembling the antlers, giving rise to the nickname "Antler City". While not every detail was implemented, the city's layout still reflects his vision, and a simple observation on Google Maps reveals the resemblance, especially with the roads branching out like antlers leading into the Arctic landscape.
One of Rovaniemi's most striking buildings is the Arktikum Museum and Science Centre. Located next to the highway, the museum is hard to miss with its long glass corridor stretching toward the Ounasjoki River. This corridor resembles a 'northern frozen finger' pointing toward the Arctic, symbolising a connection to the northern, frozen landscapes. Its glass design mirrors the Arctic environment, allowing natural light to fill the space with its transparent structure, especially during the dark winters. Inside, the museum offers exhibitions on life in the harsh conditions of the Arctic, with displays on wildlife, the northern lights, and climate change.
The museum also highlights the Sámi culture, the indigenous people of the Arctic region. Known for their nomadic lifestyle, they rely on reindeer herding for food and clothing, moving with the seasons to ensure their herds have the best grazing. Their deep connection with the land is evident in their traditional lifestyles, knowledge of sustainable land use, and spiritual beliefs intertwined with nature. For the Sámi, the land is not just a place to live but a source of identity and life, with their cultural practices and rituals reflecting their respect for the Arctic environment.
A well-known traditional meal of the Sámi people is poronkäristys, a reindeer stew. The meat is sliced thinly, fried in fat, and spiced with pepper and salt, usually served with lingonberries and mashed potatoes. It is an important and hearty dish in the northern region because the meat is rich in protein and essential nutrients, crucial for sustaining energy in the harsh Arctic climate.
km od začátku : 0017
Soramonttu Nature Preserve
Leaving the Arktikum, I set off on a fantastic snowmobile journey on the Ounasjoki. As one of the longest rivers in Finnish Lapland, the Ounasjoki stretches about 186mi (300km) and is the largest tributary of Finland's longest river, the Kemijoki.
Finland is well known for its fishing opportunities, boasting a staggering 188,000 lakes and countless rivers and streams. Ounasjoki is one of the best spots for cold-water fishing, particularly salmon, trout, pike and perch. In winter, however, ice fishing takes centre stage. As the river freezes, anglers drill a hole through the thick ice, drop a line into the cold, clear water, and then patiently wait for a bite.
Riding a snowmobile on the frozen river covered in snow is a thrilling experience. The vast expanse of whiteness stretches for miles, bordered by snow-clad forests and the occasional house. It's hard to tell where the river ends and the land begins, but the sight is breathtaking against the clear blue sky. Rugged up in warm winter gear, I can still feel the chill as I rev the engine, the snowmobile gliding effortlessly across the thick ice, leaving crisp patterns in the snow. As I speed along the frozen expanse, the cold wind rushes past, biting at my cheeks and filling my lungs with crisp Arctic air. The frosty mist rises around me, enhancing the thrill of feeling both the machine's power and the quiet stillness of the frozen world.
After an adrenaline-filled ride along the frozen river, I headed into the forest for a more peaceful adventure. The Soramonttu Nature Preserve was my next stop. In summer, Soramonttu is a sandy pit used for motocross sports, its terrain offering a challenging environment for riders. But in winter, the motorbikes are stored away, and the area transforms into a haven for snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.
I, however, chose to swap the roar of the snowmobile for the gentle rhythm of a reindeer sleigh ride through the dense forest. The soft crunch of hooves on snow was the only sound, adding to the magical atmosphere as I glided deeper into the woods.
km od začátku : 0032
Kemijoki
Finishing my peaceful sleigh ride, I headed back into the city, navigating through suburban streets past quaint wooden cottages, eventually reaching downtown Rovaniemi.
As I arrived, I was greeted by a mix of modern and traditional architecture. The work of architect Alvar Aalto is particularly notable here, including the Rovaniemi City Hall, which was completed posthumously by his wife, as well as the city library, and Lappia House, the city's conference centre. These buildings feature a minimalistic style with organic yet angular shapes, such as those of Lappia House, using materials that resonate with the natural environment and complement the region's rugged landscape.
Another interesting spot is Lordi Square, named after the Eurovision-winning metal band. Lordi, hailing from Rovaniemi, made history in 2006 by winning the Eurovision Song Contest with their song "Hard Rock Hallelujah". Formed in 1992, Lordi is known for their hard rock and heavy metal music, complete with pyrotechnics and horror elements. What really sets them apart is their incredible stage look, featuring monster costumes, elaborate makeup, and towering platform shoes. Naming the square after them is a nod to their big win, local pride, and their impact on Finnish culture.
Leaving Lordi Square, I crossed the Ounaskoski Bridge over the Kemijoki. This two-storey bridge was originally built in 1934 but destroyed during WW2. The new bridge, opened in 1951, supports railway traffic on the top section, while the lower one is for cars and pedestrians.
Looking north from the bridge, I could see the Lumberjack Candle Bridge. This cable-stayed landmark opened in 1989 and won a Civil Engineering Prize for its innovative design. Inspired by the Finnish 'lumberjack candle'—a traditional outdoor fire made by sawing dry pine logs into four parts and lighting them—the bridge features red lights atop its pillars that resemble burning candles.
As I admired the bridge, my gaze naturally turned towards the Kemijoki or Kemi River. As Finland's longest river, the Kemijoki flows south for 340mi (550km), emptying in the Gulf of Bothnia. The river has been impacted by hydroelectric dams, starting with the Isohaara power plant built in 1949 and followed by 20 others, depleting the once-abundant salmon stocks. Despite efforts to release young salmon into the river, the numbers have not yet recovered. However, projects like the fishway at Isohaara give hope that salmon migration could improve.
After a day exploring in the cold, I decided to warm up with a bowl of lohikeitto, a creamy salmon soup that was both comforting and delicious. To finish the meal, I treated myself to a slice of raparperipiirakka, a delightful rhubarb pie that added a sweet note to the end of a satisfying day.
km od začátku : 0037
Ounasvaara Hill
Ounasvaara, a notable hill a short distance from downtown Rovaniemi, is pretty much a winter paradise when the snow starts falling. While summer has its own charm with hiking and biking, winter turns this hill into a skiing and snowboarding haven.
As I strapped on my skis and hit the slopes, I couldn't help but think about the local legends—Olympic skier Tanja Poutiainen and World Champion snowboarder Antti Autti. Both grew up in Rovaniemi and trained right here, shaping their incredible careers. It's pretty cool to know I'm gliding down the same snow that played a part in their success.
Standing still on the summit, I admired the snowy landscape below, the snow-covered Kemi River shimmering in the crisp, sunlit air. The scene was invigorating. I pushed off, feeling the exhilarating rush of freedom as I sped downhill. The wind whipped through my hair as I effortlessly took each turn. The only sound was the gentle swish of my skis gliding through the snow. It felt like a dance, almost like a waltz—smooth and graceful, with a seamless shift from one leg to the next. My knees were slightly bent, quads and hamstrings engaged to help maintain balance. There were no thoughts or worries, just the controlled speed and the pure thrill of the ride.
With ten ski runs to choose from, the longest one stretches about a third of a mile (600m). Given that it's a hill rather than a mountain, I didn't expect the runs to be particularly long. However, they still offered opportunities to practice speed and carving techniques. I could feel the difference as I pushed harder. As I leaned into tighter turns, I felt my skis digging into the snow more deeply, making each turn sharper and more precise. My body had to adjust, lowering my centre of gravity to stay balanced. With each turn, my legs and core worked hard to keep me steady and in control, making handling the speed and the curves easier. The exhilaration of skiing became more playful as I navigated small moguls. These little snow bumps required quick reflexes and sharp skills.
Wrapping up the day on the slopes, I stopped at a restaurant at the bottom of the hill to warm up with a hot cup of stone-ground, organic chocolate drink. I could taste the slightly gritty texture from the stone-grinding process, a method that keeps the cacao's intense flavour. Every sip was pure heaven—deep, rich, and creamy.
While savoring my hot chocolate, I contemplated another day on Ounasvaara, but this time, I'd rent a fatbike—an off-road bike with oversized tyres made for riding on soft, unstable terrain like snow. I imagined hitting the snowy singletracks on the hilltop, ready for a new kind of adventure.
km od začátku : 0048
Santa Claus Village
Ounasvaara was a wonderful, active playground, but my final destination was the famous Santa Claus Village. The village exudes a rustic charm with its Nordic log cabin style, featuring exposed wooden beams, stonework, and steeply pitched roofs. The village began with a unique connection to Eleanor Roosevelt, the former First Lady of the United States.
In 1950, while on a goodwill mission, Eleanor Roosevelt visited Rovaniemi, drawing attention to this remote corner of Finland. During this visit, a small log cabin was built in her honour. Known as the "Eleanor Roosevelt Cabin", it marked the start of a magical transformation.
Legend has it that Santa, intrigued by the growing allure of the village, took notice. As word of Eleanor's visit and the quaint log cabin spread, the magical whispers reached Santa's ears. According to folklore, Santa visited the village one winter night, guided by the twinkling lights of the cabin and the warm glow of the village's first Christmas decorations. Seeing the pristine Arctic beauty, Santa decided it was the perfect place to call home. The cabin became a symbol of his presence, and Santa Claus Village grew around it, blending tradition with myth.
Caught up in the festive excitement, I headed to the Santa Claus Main Post Office, where more than half a million letters from over 200 countries arrive each year. With their exceptional speed and abilities, the Postal Elves have read over 20 million wishes, becoming true keepers of holiday magic. I wrote postcards to family and friends, and the elves stamped each one with a special Arctic Circle postmark before dropping them into a red postbox. This box, a magical vault, holds the letters until they are sent out for Christmas.
Next, I visited Santa's office. The cozy log cabin, adorned with twinkling lights and festive decor, was just as I had imagined. Inside, Santa greeted me with a warm smile and a twinkle in his eye. We took a photo together to commemorate the moment, exchanged pleasantries and holiday wishes, and enjoyed a cozy cup of hot cocoa.
Returning to the village centre, where the Arctic Circle runs through it, was the perfect end to my Rovaniemi journey. This boundary marks the northernmost point where the sun does not set during the summer or rise during the winter. The painted white line is marked with festive columns, and, like a child, I stepped back and forth, experiencing the chill of the Arctic air and the warmth of the holiday cheer all at once. I felt as if I was stepping between the known world and the wondrous realm of Santa Claus.
Farewell for now, and see you on the next adventure.
