The “Land Beyond the Forest” lends an air of mystery and adventure. Such is the English translation of the Latin word Transylvania, a magnificent mountainous region in Romania that in modern times has been closely associated with the fictional character Dracula and the legendary warlord Vlad Dracula otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler.
Occupying nearly 42% of Romania’s total surface, the region is hugged by the Carpathian Mountains (“the Carpathians”) to the east and south and the Apuseni Mountains to the west. At the centre is the Transylvanian Plateau made up of a network of valleys, canyons, and small mountain ranges.
Occupied by Dacians, Romans, Huns, Slavs and Bulgars, until just after the end of the first millennium AD Transylvania became part of the Kingdom of Hungary and then the subsequent Austro-Hungarian Empire for the next 900 years. Following the end of WW1 and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Transylvania was transferred to Romania.
The region is populated by a mix of Romanians, Hungarians, and German Saxons. This cultural diversity beautifully shows up in the well-preserved Gothic architecture, the Saxon fortified towns, traditional folk costumes, and its finger-licking good food.
I am currently in Sinaia, a mountain resort town that is located in the historic region of Wallachia, south of Transylvania. Wallachia, referred to as Muntenia by Romanians, was a region that was often at war either with the Ottomans to the south or Hungarians to the north. It continued this way until the late-19th century when Wallachia together with Moldavia, a vassal principality in the northeast, joined to become the Kingdom of Romania with King Carol I, a member of a German royal dynasty, as the first monarch to rule.
King Carol commissioned the construction of Peleş Castle, a summer residence in the north of Sinaia on an extant medieval route linking Wallachia with Transylvania. Built at the end of the 19th century the castle has a Neo-Renaissance and Gothic Revival architecture. Completed with more than 170 rooms, it is a beautiful structure of spires, wood panelling, a clock tower and highly detailed frescoes. The grounds are filled with terraced gardens, niches filled with statues, fountains, grand lion statues standing guard and more.
Whilst outside is just stunning, the inside is an absolute visual feast. Spectacular carvings, walnut panelling, themed rooms, gilding on walls and doors, sumptuous velvet seating and curios abound all around. The central atrium was covered with a large stained-glass ceiling allowing natural light to filter through. Medieval weapons adorned the walls where I recognised the curved scimitar swords of the Ottomans, 16th century muskets, battle-axes and various daggers and swords. Everywhere I turned there was something to study or admire.
Filled with all the wonderful art and architecture, I stepped outside and took in the crisp, clean air of the Bucegi Mountains. As the castle proudly sat on a hill surrounded by dense forestry, I imagined this was a quiet getaway for the family from their royal duties.
Taking a stroll, I visited the nearby Pelişor castle the King built at the turn of the 20th century for his nephew, Ferdinand I, heir to the throne, and his wife, Maria. Much smaller in size, the Art Nouveau castle is famous for the Golden Room that is decorated floor to ceiling in golden leaves.
Passing by King Carol’s towering statue at the main entrance, I head out of the estate and towards the city of Braşov.
km od začátku : 0060
Braşov
Braşov is the capital city of Braşov County in Transylvania. Developed and expanded throughout the centuries, Braşov has traces of settlement since the Neolithic Age (9500BC). During the 12th century, the King of Hungary invited German Saxons to settle and develop the surrounding area. A century later the Teutonic Knights built fortifications to defend the kingdom’s borders, among these was Kronstadt, the Crown City, today known as Braşov.
Located in the foothills of the Carpathians the old city centre reveals Saxon architecture, partial remains of the old curtain wall, bastions and towers, and restored city gates. At the centre of the old city in a large open square is the old Town Hall, Casa Sfatului, a building that originally began as a watchtower in 1420. Over the succeeding centuries it has been added to, partially destroyed by war and earthquakes, rebuilt, restored, altered and nearly fully demolished twice in the 20th century. This is one building that has withstood the test of time. Given its many changes, the building is a blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The tower’s German clock, installed in 1892, continues to accurately tell time.
Nearby, tucked amongst buildings in a court is the 15th century Saxon-built, Gothic-style Black Church, Biserica Neagră. Towering above the old city’s skyline, this imposing church is the heart of the city. The main entrance is richly decorated with heavy carved doors leading inside where two large chalices (c1504) occupy the floor, more than 200 Ottoman carpets – the second largest collection of Ottoman carpets in Europe, mostly from 15th-16th centuries – hang as decoration and two organs, of which one has 4,000 pipes, are played during weekly concerts.
Southeast of the old city is the ethnically Bulgarian and Romanian neighbourhood called Prund-Şchei, Şcheii Braşovului, a village-like town made up of small houses and narrow streets. Prior to the 17th century, the town’s residents were not permitted to own property inside the old city’s walls and access was only allowed through St Catherine’s gate (one of five gates) where they had to pay a toll in order to sell their produce. The ethnic Bulgarians arrived in the late 14th century, most likely to assist in the reconstruction of the Black Church destroyed by the Tatars, a Turkic-speaking ethnic group, a century earlier. They settled in the area and over time adopted the Romanian language and ethnic identity.
In 1583 the First Romanian School located in Prund-Şchei began conducting its first lessons in the Romanian language. Prior to this, education was conducted in Church Slavonic, which used to be the liturgical language of the Romanian Church. As the school was within the Kingdom of Hungary, students from far and wide would come to attend. Their attendance was paid for by the village with the aim that upon return they would then teach and share their education. The school operated for 230 years. Today it is a museum, exhibiting various educational books in both Slavic and Romanian, the first Romanian bible and the first Romanian printing press.
Having worked up an appetite from all my wanderings, I head to the nearest restaurant to try some of the local cuisine. I settled for a Ciorbă de Perişoare for entrée, a clear, slightly sour meatball soup with vegetables chopped up really small and for main I opted for a vegetarian dish of stacked potatoes. This dish in Romanian is called Cartofi Franţuzeşti, meaning French Potatoes, although unsure if it originated in France it consists of layers of sliced potatoes and hard-boiled eggs, topped with sour cream and breadcrumbs, and baked in the oven. There are variations to this dish for the meat lovers by adding ham, sausages, or really tasty salami. Yum!!
km od začátku : 0105
Feldioara
During the medieval era, fortifications were a typical form of protection against raids and invasions. At a time when conquering and waging war was a way of life, kingdoms would build great walls around their cities. Yet when the Mongols tore their way through the Kingdom of Hungary in the 13th century decimating villages and populations, it was clear that the fortifications in place were insufficient to hold the Mongols at bay.
The Transylvanian Saxons did their best to fight against the Mongols and hold their position but to no avail and subsequently many of the settlements were completely destroyed. Anticipating another invasion, the Saxons proceeded not just to rebuild but to fortify their territories. As such more than 300 villages were fortified. High curtain walls were built around the more important towns, as seen in Braşov, whereas smaller ones were built around the church, adding defensive buildings and storehouses to help the villagers withstand extended sieges.
With time many of these fortified villages fell into ruin and only about half of them continue to exist. Of these, seven of them throughout the region were classified UNESCO sites such as Prejmer’s fortified church just north of Braşov. A little further from Prejmer, I passed the fortified church of Hărman with its 20ft (6m) thick walls. The chapel has an extensive collection of antique knotted carpets and textiles, and the walls are adorned with highly detailed 15th century murals.
Having arrived in Feldioara, I stopped at the former headquarters of the Teutonic Order, a fortress built in 1225 and assumed to be the oldest in the area. Very little is left of the interior, but the curtain wall and its four towers have been fully restored. Strategically located, the fortress offered views over the landscape, the village of Feldioara and the spire of St Mary’s Church.
Wrapping up my meanderings, I pulled up at a local dining spot to indulge in another traditional dish that is usually served during special celebrations called Sarmale, stuffed cabbage rolls. Made of minced pork mixed with caramelised onions and rice, it is then rolled into pickled sauerkraut leaf and pressure cooked with cuts of pork belly. The cabbage rolls are served with a dollop of sour cream on the side. While cabbage rolls have Turkish origins, they are a traditional Romanian dish with regional differences.
km od začátku : 0166
Făgăraş
Făgăraş is a small city located in the foothills of the Făgăraş Mountains. Less than a mile southeast of the city centre lies the geographical centre of Romania. North of the city flowing west is the Olt River, the longest river running exclusively through Romania.
In the city centre, surrounded by a moat is the 14th century Făgăraş Citadel. Built on an earlier fortification made of wood and earth ramparts that was most likely destroyed during the Mongol invasion of 1241, the new citadel was reinforced by doubling the thickness of its walls. A worthy effort since subsequent sieges failed and the citadel was never captured again.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, the citadel served as a princely residence, mainly for the wives of the Transylvanian princes until it was repurposed to serve as a garrison. One such princess was Kata Bethlen who was one of the earliest Hungarians to write memoirs. Married and widowed twice, Kata had a difficult relationship with her in-laws and children and poured her thoughts and emotions into her writing, producing a number of works. As the carer of her late husband’s estate, she was also very involved in the community, encouraging her tenants to develop better farming practices, established nurseries on her lands for improved stock propagation, and employed artisans to work in her papermill and glassworks factory. She taught herself medicine and pharmacology so she could help her community and set up scholarships and schools with particular interest in educating girls.
At the end of WW2, the citadel was once again repurposed as a prison for dissidents of the newly formed communist regime. Restored in the 1970s, it now serves as a museum displaying historical artefacts and travelling exhibitions.
Feeling like a taste of Hungarian cooking, I’m in search of a restaurant that may serve goulash, or gulyás, a soup-stew that dates back to the 9th century when it was eaten by the Hungarian shepherds. Traditionally the stew was slow cooked in a cauldron over an open fire by first browning beef and onion in lard, then adding vegetables and a good dose of potatoes. It was then topped with water and flavoured with sweet or hot paprika and a pinch of caraway. Since paprika was only introduced into Europe around the 16th century, flavouring was completed with plenty of pepper. Fresh baked bread helped to soak up the juices. Now where to find such a place?
km od začátku : 0209
Făgăraş Mountain
One of Romania’s most striking features is the Carpathian Mountains. Dominating over 60% of its territory, the Carpathians arcs from the north of the country to the east, then sharply curve in a south-westerly direction. The birth of the Carpathians was about 100 million years ago when the African and European tectonic plates collided, pushing the rocks upwards.
This 932mi (1,500km) mountain range crosses seven countries and it is the third-longest in Europe. The Carpathians are rich in biodiversity largely due to its remoteness and limited human intervention, allowing plants to thrive and wildlife to roam. Many natural areas in Romania are protected by law through the establishment of national parks and nature reserves.
The Carpathians are divided into three sections, of which the Southern Carpathians, also referred to as the Transylvanian Alps, are part of this journey. Home to brown bears, wolves and lynxes, the Southern Carpathians have the largest area of unfragmented old-growth forests in Europe. It is the second highest mountain range group in the Carpathians with Moldoveanu Peak as its highest followed by Negoiu Peak, both located in the Făgăraş Mountains.
Located in the heart of Romania, the Făgăraş Mountains have an east to west direction with a ridgeline approximately 50mi (80km) long. It contains a great number of peaks (nearly 40 above 7,874ft / 2,400m), glacial valleys, cirque lakes, and moraines. The mountain’s forested areas include deciduous trees, conifers, dwarf pine and juniper. The alpine zone, which is above 6,561ft (2,000m) is mostly grasslands, making it perfect for hiking expeditions with expansive views above the treelines.
With hiking in mind, I veered off the main road near the village of Sâmbăta de Jos in a southwest direction, passing by farmland and other villages until I reached the foothills of the mountains. Ascending along a trail I followed the ridgeline on rocky and wild terrain. Small wildflowers in yellow, white and purple peaked through the ruggedness. After taking in the stunning views, I hiked down to Podragu Lake, a glacial lake in the Podragu Valley.
Enjoying the landscape, I trekked to Fereastra Zmeilor, translated as Kite Window, a small, arched, rock formation with views of the various nearby ridges. The ‘Dragon’s Window’ mountain cabin is nearby to take refuge if needed but I pressed on to the end of the trail and joined with the Transfăgăraşan Road, a dizzying hairpin bending road that cuts through the Făgăraş Mountains from north to south.
Famished, I am in search of food once again and this time I am dreaming of mititei, grilled sausages without their casing. There are variations to this, but my favourite is made of a mix of ground beef and lamb with minced garlic, a little black pepper, cumin, and bicarb soda which gives the sausage a bit of a zing. Rolled into small cylindrical shapes, the sausage is grilled on an open fire and served with mustard or a mixture of finely chopped garlic and water that gives the mititei some extra zing. It may be accompanied by French fries or with fresh bread, but I prefer it on its own because the flavour is so divine, I don’t want any peripheral distractions. As they say in Romanian, poftă bună, have a good appetite.
km od začátku : 0268
Poienari Citadel
“The view was magnificent, and from where I stood there was every opportunity of seeing it. The castle is on the very edge of a terrific precipice. A stone falling from the window would fall a thousand feet without touching anything! As far as the eye can reach is a sea of green treetops, with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm. Here and there are silver threads where the rivers wind in deep gorges through the forests.” – Bram Stoker’s Dracula
Such an apt description of Poienari Citadel located high atop a mountain west of Transfăgăraşan. It’s as if Bram Stoker had seen it when he described Count Dracula’s lair in his famous 1897 book. But Bram has never been to Transylvania. He has however, spent considerable time writing his book near Slains Castle in Scotland and the description of the octagonal room in the book seems remarkably similar to the floorplan of Slains Castle’s octagonal interior hall.
Construction of the citadel began in the 1300s, possibly by the first rulers of Wallachia and it is thought that only the main tower was built. Abandoned after a few decades and left to decay, it was Vlad Dracula, also known as Vlad III and Vlad the Impaler, who saw it as a strategic spot for a stronghold. As such he set about restoring the fortress and expanding on the tower with walls and bastions. He used the fortress as a second residence with his primary home located in Târgoviște, the capital of Wallachia at the time.
Vlad Dracula was the son of Vlad II the Dragon (Vlad II Dracul) who was a member of the Order of the Dragon, a chivalric order established by the then King of Hungary. The word dragon in archaic Romanian is dracul and Dracula is a Slavonic form meaning ‘son of Dracul’, hence Vlad Dracula.
Vlad Dracula was ruler of Wallachia, reigning over three different occasions. Wallachia was a small country squeezed between two powerhouses, the Kingdom of Hungary to the north and the Ottoman Empire to the south. During his reign, Vlad would regularly switch allegiances for personal gain; fight ferociously; and posthumously acquire the moniker Vlad the Impaler. One story tells of a banquet held by Vlad with hundreds of Wallachian boyars (nobility) who were constantly feuding with one another. When the boyars began challenging his authority, he called on his army to impale them with wooden stakes. A very bloody example that brought stability to Wallachia through fear.
Another story tells of the Ottoman sultan demanding suzerainty which Vlad refused. Vlad retaliated by impaling more than 20,000 Turks. The number seems incredibly high, and it is possible that the story is part true, and part embellished but what does remain a fact is that his reputation grew exponentially, and he continues to be an infamous historical character.
It is assumed that Bram Stoker’s aristocratic, well-dressed, cape-wearing, blood-drinking vampire Dracula was based on the fierce warlord Vlad Dracula. It’d be easy to see why. Both are named Dracula; both were warriors in Transylvania; and both fought the Turks. However, Bram’s notes show copied sections from another book about Wallachia and Moldavia that references several rulers named Dracula who fought the Turks but no mention whatsoever about the name Vlad or The Impaler. He further noted that Dracula means the Devil. What can be surmised from this is that Bram liked the idea of Dracula and its evil and cruel association as a character whilst having no clue about its historical background nor the real people who owned the name. Only a tiny bit of doubt remains based on Van Helsing’s description of Dracula in the book: “He must, indeed, have been that Voivode Dracula who won his name against the Turk, over the great river on the very frontier of Turkey-land."
This connection or lack thereof between the real and fictional Draculas was complex. I am unsure if it was unravelled satisfactorily but I sure was left somewhat hungry. Sitting on a bench at the top of the citadel, I extracted a small lunchbox with a serving of salată de beuf. Translated as beef salad, this is a very popular Romanian dish, often made for easter or other main events. Time consuming to make it is a mix of finely chopped root vegetables, boiled meat, pickled gherkins, peas, and potato folded with homemade egg and mustard-based mayonnaise and accompanied with fresh bread. It was a very hearty dish that powered me up on the next leg of my journey.
km od začátku : 0317
Câmpulung
Tucked in a valley at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains is the narrow and elongated municipality of Câmpulung, translated as Long Field. The town is divided by the River Tîrgului with two major roads running parallel on either side of the river.
Câmpulung is one of the oldest Wallachian settlements dating back to 1292. When Basarab I defeated the King of Hungary at the Battle of Posada in 1330, it ended Wallachia’s suzerainty to the Kingdom of Hungary and became the first independent Romanian principality. Basarab I became the founding ruler of Wallachia and established the dynasty House of Basarab of which Vlad the Impaler is a descendent. Basarab set up the first capital city in Câmpulung.
As an interesting sidenote, Basarab’s daughter Theodora married the then Emperor of Bulgaria and after several children and a decade of marriage he divorced her and sent her to a monastery to become a nun. Theodora is the first known nun in Romania’s history and in 2022 she was canonised by the Romanian Orthodox Church.
One of the highlights of the town is the Ethnography and Folklore Museum. Housed in a beautifully restored house, the museum displays a significant collection of folk-art objects, providing an insight into rural living and an appreciation for handmade items from hand carved furniture and wood turned utensils to hand-painted eggs and pottery, handwoven rugs, embroidered cloths, and traditional costumes.
A short stroll south of the Museum is the Negru Vodă Monastery, thought to be built in 1220 by the legendary Radu Negru, Voivode of Wallachia. Radu is supposed to precede Basarab I but some historians think he might have been one and the same person or he might have been Basarab’s father but there is no evidence to suggest either way. The earliest mention of Radu Negru was in the 17th century, lending a lot more mystery than truth to his existence. It is possibly the reason why he is listed as a ‘legendary’ ruler rather than real.
The monastery was rebuilt many times throughout the centuries, having been destroyed at least twice from earthquakes in the 1600s and the 1800s and a fire in the 1930s. Each time the monastery was repaired and restored. The interior of the church is filled with large scale paintings depicting various notable figures including several Wallachian rulers and their spouses. According to inscriptions found in the Court of Argeş (another monastery), both Basarab I and his son Nicolae Alexandru were buried here.
Coming to the end of my day, I’m hankering for a very filling but not too heavy dish and the Romanian stuffed peppers, ardei umpluţi, is what comes to mind. This is a universal dish that can be found in many cuisines, each with its own variation. What I am thinking of is the vegetarian version made of near-perfectly rounded, red bell peppers with their tops chopped off and the seeds cleaned out so it’s nice and hollow. Added to it is a mixture of cooked rice, minced onion, finely chopped carrots, seasoned with parsley, dill and the usual salt and pepper. The stuffed peppers are placed in a tray and a freshly made tomato sauce poured over it then baked. The bread as always is present to soak up the sauce.
A side note about the food. Romanian cuisine is wonderfully diverse and flavoursome. Given its geographical location, the cuisine is influenced by all its neighbours past and present such as the Balkans and Greece to the south, the Turks to the southeast and the former Austria-Hungary to the northwest. What sets it apart from its neighbours is the local flavouring and preparation giving the dishes their distinctive Romanian flavour.
km od začátku : 0369
Bran Castle
The most anticipated part of this journey was arriving at the famous Dracula lair, Bran Castle, on the Transylvanian side of the historical border with Wallachia. Built sometime in the 14th century by the Transylvanian Saxons, the castle was primarily used as a fortress protecting the borders from Ottoman incursions.
There is a belief that Vlad III Dracula was held prisoner by the Hungarians based on written records that he passed through Bran gorge many times on his way to Wallachia’s capital Târgovişte. Other historians completely refute Vlad ever setting foot in the castle most likely due to lack of documentation as evidence thereby breaking the connection between Vlad and Bran Castle.
Of course, the question remains as to how Bran Castle became associated with the vampire’s castle given that Bram has never been to Transylvania. Some suggest that Bram was inspired by an illustration of Bran Castle, referred to as Terzburg (sic) in Charles Boner’s book on Transylvania but Bram’s castle description is so vague that it could have been Poienari Citadel, Slains Castle or any other castle on a precipice with chasms and rivers.
Bran Castle became synonymous with the fictional Dracula sometime in the 1990s when restorations were complete, and the property was added to the tourist circuit. It has a perfect blend of Gothic architecture, sombre appearance and rocky hilltop location for vampire-themed fans coming from far and wide in search of the elusive Count Dracula.
Count Dracula may be a fictional character of Bram’s imagination, but myths of the un-dead referred to as strigoi have been part of Romania’s folklore since the 16th century, beginning with a villager who apparently terrorised his neighbours for years after his death until he was decapitated by the village priest. Strigoi are restless souls who supposedly rise from the grave with the ability to transform into animals and gain vitality from their victims. Unbeknownst to Bram, his creation of Dracula as a blood drinking vampire would become a modern interpretation of the strigoi and Transylvania with all of its beauty and historical villages would become a vampire-themed tourist destination.
On a more realistic note, Bran Castle fell into decay by the late 19th century until it was gifted to Queen Marie of Romania who carefully restored it in the 1920s and made it one of her favourite getaway homes. The castle was confiscated at the end of WW2 when the monarchy was dissolved, and the king (Marie’s grandson) was forced to abdicate and sent into exile. The castle was returned to Marie’s descendants in 2009 and continues to operate as a museum focused on its real history instead of the fictional one.
This brings me to the end of my journey. I wander away from the castle with my head filled with facts and fiction between Vlad and Dracula and I reflect on this beautiful region, its diverse people and wonderfully good food.
